For over 15 years I have been working on waterproofing items for wet rooms. I received numerous phone calls and e-mails from people who wanted a wet room, but were told by their neighbour, their builder/friend/dog sitter!! “You can’t have a wet room on a second story” I want to point out once in a while that, yes, on the first, second, or other floors, you can set up a wet room. It is also possible to construct a wet room on a wooden floor and on concrete floors. Yeah, it can be done, it is not hard, and no leakage can happen (providing the work is carried out correctly).
It is interesting that the key differences between a regular shower area and a wet room screens should be addressed when looking at the pros and cons of this issue.
Importance of tray 1
The shower tray itself is waterproof with a traditional shower area, but the rest of the room is fully waterproof. Each water that crosses over the tray boundaries does not penetrate the waste system, instead, it leaks through the floor area, rots wood, or leaks into rooms beneath. When you build the first shower you hope it is waterproof, but over the years the silicone density can be tough and less durable and can break down the grooves between tiles. Many have had problems with leaking showers over the years, and typically a substantial amount of water damage has occurred by the time they have identified the problem.
The above can be compared to a well-installed wet room. The trapped waste disposal is first mounted on the ground floor. The floor is slightly sloped (path to fall) and a gradient towards the waste is formed. Water can not bypass the waste drain. Waterproofing is important for the success of this arrangement (also known as tanking). It should be tanked in all wet spaces; this should spread to the floor with a turning to the walls of at least 100mm. The floor to ceiling must be tanked for all walls in the immediate shower area. This ensures that any water running through the carpet is waterproofed. It will go down and join the drainage system harmlessly. We may also deduce that a waterproof room is a very healthy bid compared with normal shower facilities.
The floor – tiles versus wood
It is very important that the floor is rigid when tiling over a wooden floor. If “bounce” occurs on the floor, this must be achieved by using additional “noggins” (extra joist installed between the existing joists, at a 90-degree angle). I suggest minimum floorboards of 20mm WBP-Plywood, but 24mm is even better! The floor structure needs to be very dense as well.
The used waterproofing device shall be of a kind designed especially for wet rooms. It consists of a liquid rubber paste with additional tapes, cloaks, and reinforcement tapes for wall-to-floor junctions, pipes, and corners. Waterproofing must be versatile, highly temperature-stable, and breathable, waterproofing systems must comply with ETAG 22 within the European Union and bear the CE signs.
Installation guidelines
The most difficult thing in people’s minds seems to be building a “slope to falls” with the ease of creating a wet space. If you undertake all the craft from scratch, this can be very demanding, but a Shower Tray Former is an intelligent means of achieving the necessary “fall” A shower tray Former is a pre-produced tray, with the gradient already installed. They also know it as the “hidden shower tray” They are normally flat on their back, with an inclined front surface, and fit directly across their floor joists. The ones I know are made from eco-friendly Oak Ply and are rebuilt for inclusive waste disposal. After installing the rack, it is waterproofed together with the rest of the floor and tiled over it giving the design continuity throughout the entire floor. All you will see about the former is the grating on the finished floor, all else is hidden. Enjoy the Royal Bathrooms!
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